[ 3 / a / adv / an / asp / cgl / ck / co / diy / fa / g / gd / int / jp / k / lit / m / mlp / mu / n / o / out / p / po / sci / sp / tg / toy / trv / tv / v / vg / vp / vr / w / wsg / x]

/asp/ - Alternative Sports

<< back to board
[Delete this thread]

Anonymous 03/31/14(Mon)13:36 UTC+1 No.361069 Report

I really want to get into archery. Shot a bow once and loved it. Anything that i should look into before buying a bow?

Also general archery thread
Anonymous 03/31/14(Mon)13:44 UTC+1 No.361071 Report

what kind of bow did you shoot, composite? naked?

competitive archery is divided into 2 different sports. one is just shooting the center of a target at different ranges, the other simulates hunting and you run a course in the woods shooting mock animal targets
Anonymous 03/31/14(Mon)13:55 UTC+1 No.361073 Report

I shot an old fashioned bow, composite if i'm correct at a target. i like shooting at different ranges on a target. I'm also left handed so i also should take that in consideration.
Anonymous 04/01/14(Tue)06:01 UTC+1 No.362391 Report

Compound bows are for plebs.

I need to work on my arms though so I can actually draw a decent bow. What are some good arm exercises?
Anonymous 04/01/14(Tue)06:30 UTC+1 No.362407 Report

doesn't matter if you're right or left handed,
dominate eye is the important thing.
I'm right handed and left-eye dominate, therefore I shoot a "left-handed" bow, i.e. my left hand draws the string.
Anonymous 04/02/14(Wed)01:44 UTC+1 No.362904 Report

Archery fag here, been doing primitive archery for 15 years, also left handed.

What you need to do is pick a style that suits you best and in a budget you can afford for now. If you're just starting Do not, and i stress this DO NOT spend lots of money on your first bow. You will outgrow it in a couple months and when that happens you'll be left with a very expensive beginner's bow.

If you want semi modern, IE re-curves made of fiberglass and wood laminate than look for a used bow with detachable limbs. This will let you upgrade as you get stronger. I went from pulling a 25 pound draw fiberglass self bow to a 120 pound longbow and 70 pound draw Mongolian recurve. So start cheep then spluge later.

Second lesson, inexpensive arrows, not cheap ones. Carbon fiber fiberglass or even aluminium shaft arrows have become very inexpensive since I started shooting. If you are joining a club that has rules for using Wood arrows only (like some reenactment groups do) Make sure that you have your nice wood arrows for that and the more sturdy ones for practice. The arrows also should be matched to the draw weight of your bow. this helps keep you on target.
Anonymous 04/02/14(Wed)02:11 UTC+1 No.362931 Report

Archery, like any shooting sport takes practice and a bit of training for technique. Just like shooting a rifle or pistol it's all about getting into the comfortable position and technique and following that same pattern every time.

This way your stance, draw release and sight picture become normalized before you start trying to dial in on a target. If you change something with each shot it will be nearly impossible to hone in on that target and your accuracy will become random.

There are also some simple physics to learn.
Anonymous 04/02/14(Wed)03:37 UTC+1 No.362966 Report

The Archer's Paradox.

Aka why spine weight matters

When you loose an arrow the back end of the arrow is traveling faster than the front. This acceleration causes the shaft to flex around the bow and continues to osculate as it flies toward the target. If the arrow is too stiff than it does not flex enough and will fly off target normally in the direction that it is placed on the bow. If the arrow flexes too much this can cause it to wobble and fly erratically or even snap the shaft from the force being applied to it as the arrow accelerates.

Unlike a bullet this warping effect means that the arrow will bend and flex along it's natural grain (for wood) or acording to the properties of the material it's made out of. though if you shoot the same way every time than the arrows will group together in a relatively tight pattern.
Anonymous 04/02/14(Wed)04:03 UTC+1 No.362996 Report

Non-archerfag here. That's pretty intetesting. Thanks, anon.
Anonymous 04/02/14(Wed)04:39 UTC+1 No.363030 Report

how hard is it to get into the Olympics?
Do i need to have started archery from a young age?

21 btw
Anonymous 04/02/14(Wed)04:42 UTC+1 No.363033 Report

It goes more in depth. Learning to gauge your distance in relation to the arrow's arc. And just like a rifle the stronger the bow is the flatter it's trajectory. So when you start out it is best to keep a uniform short distance from the target you don't want to be lobbing your shots at 20 yards.

Another word on shooting. There are 3 main techniques.

The Mediterranean draw aka 3 or 2 fingers grip the string one above the knock of the arrow and two below, some will also use a 2 finger style with one above and one below. this grip gives a slight twist to the bowstring that will pull the arrow slightly toward the hand drawing the bow. This means that you place the arrow on the outside of the bow. (Hold your bow parallel with the ground and place the arrow on top of the bow before turning the bow straight again to draw)

This style offers a good grip on the string and if you do not have a lot of grip strength it is easier to hold the draw the down side is that there is a lot of finger contacting the string and you need to release quickly and evenly or the little changes will throw off your shot slightly just like a sloppy trigger squeeze in rifle or pistol shooting.
Anonymous 04/02/14(Wed)04:49 UTC+1 No.363036 Report

It doesn't hurt to start young, though arguably one of the best living archers is named "Byron Ferguson" just google that and superhuman and you will see the man literally shoot an aspirin out of the air. Or thread a wedding ring with an arrow. And he is an older guy.

To become good at something it just takes practice and research. Olympic archery just like Olympic shooting is very skill heavy but also relies on some of the most expensive shooting equipment you can get. High dollar bows with sights and weights and shock absorbers built into them. some very high tech gear that turns a good archer into a crack shot. You can compete with less but doing it on that level takes some serious money.
Anonymous 04/02/14(Wed)04:58 UTC+1 No.363051 Report

Continuing right along.

The pinch method is very handy for fast shooting and lower draw weight bows. Your hand isn't touching the string and that means less friction when releasing the shot. If you have a strong grip this is used just like the Mediterranean with the arrow on the outside of the bow relative to your hand position. Because your fingers are applying pressure to the arrow and not the string it will hold the shaft against the body of the bow slightly more than the 3 finger draw.

At heavier draw weights this grip becomes more difficult and can lead to early release or your hands shaking at full draw.
Anonymous 04/02/14(Wed)05:09 UTC+1 No.363063 Report

Lastly the Mongolian draw.

To use this draw a lot requires some serious callouses or a thumb ring basically you lock your thumb around the string and hold it with your fingers. It reduces the amount of contact on the string while locking your release with the strength of your entire hand. The upshot is that it is fast and you can pull a heavy bow with relative ease. This draw also means that your arrow has to rest on the inside of the bow, opposite of the pinch and 3 finger draw because the position of your hand will push the shaft away from the bow if it is on the outside.

This also means that you can't site the same way and it becomes more of a point and shoot muscle memory rather than siting along the shaft of the arrow. another benefit to this is that the grip presses the arrow to the bow so you can shoot in any direction, at a run or from the back of a horse. the arrow will not fall away from the bow if you point it in any direction.
Anonymous 04/02/14(Wed)05:35 UTC+1 No.363094 Report

You should be using your shoulders to draw more than your actual arm muscles, at least the way I learned how to shoot.
Anonymous 04/02/14(Wed)05:35 UTC+1 No.363096 Report

I shoot my Mongol bow more often now and use the longbow for demonstrations. There is a old breastplate in my garage with puncture marks in it from bodkin points to illustrate what a heavy war bow does at close range. Also a target with riveted chain and quilted padding to show that even the oldest armor is still pretty effective at stopping the arrow. It just feels like getting shot with a large caliber handgun without the penetration.
Anonymous 04/02/14(Wed)05:39 UTC+1 No.363100 Report

Depends on the bow, and what you're doing with it. So long as you have a smooth even draw than arms or back doesn't really matter too much. though the exercise of drawing and holding your shot will build your chest back and shoulders. Relying too much on your arms will make them start to shake after successive shots.
Anonymous 04/02/14(Wed)05:41 UTC+1 No.363103 Report

now for sexy archer girls
Anonymous 04/02/14(Wed)06:44 UTC+1 No.363130 Report

Anonymous 04/02/14(Wed)12:50 UTC+1 No.363207 Report

Anonymous 04/03/14(Thu)01:06 UTC+1 No.363588 Report

More pictures.
Anonymous 04/03/14(Thu)01:08 UTC+1 No.363589 Report

Anonymous 04/03/14(Thu)01:12 UTC+1 No.363593 Report

Anonymous 04/03/14(Thu)01:18 UTC+1 No.363595 Report

Oh another little shooting tip. this picture illustrates something called string walking. It is a way to change the distance of your shot without changing the sight picture. some who use it go as far as to count the wraps on the bowstring with their fingernail in order to get a consistent draw. The idea is slimier to adjusting the sites on a rifle once you're grouping well you can use this to adjust the point of impact of your arrows just like changing the elevation knob on a rifle site.
Anonymous 04/03/14(Thu)01:19 UTC+1 No.363596 Report

Doing it wrong. so very wrong.
Anonymous 04/03/14(Thu)01:20 UTC+1 No.363599 Report

Anonymous 04/03/14(Thu)01:32 UTC+1 No.363606 Report

>Do Archery in Middle School and Jr High as part of PE sometimes
>Better shot than the teacher, an instructor and bow huntsman
>Outshoot all the rich kids that've had lessons and go to competition
>Poor so never get to pursue it

What's the price range for getting into Archery these days?
Starting as a beginner, what's the basic kit come to, including targets and hay or whatever?
What about making your own bows in the woods?
Where does the string even come from?
How do you learn which saplings or trees to use for the bow and the arrow shafts?
How do you make the arrowheads?

So much to learn. Not enough time.
Anonymous 04/03/14(Thu)02:28 UTC+1 No.363617 Report

Find a piece of dry and dead (but not gray or cracking) hardwood--oak, lemon tree, hickory, yew, black locust, or teak for example-- about 6 feet in length. The wood should be free of knots, twists or limbs, and it would be helpful if the branch is thick at its center.

This piece of wood should be somewhat flexible, such as juniper or mulberry. You can even use a shaft of bamboo or cane but take care that it is not too thick. For that you can use young bamboo which is strong as well as flexible.

Green wood (living wood that you cut from a tree or sapling) can be used if absolutely necessary, but should be avoided because it does not provide the same power as dry wood.
Anonymous 04/03/14(Thu)02:29 UTC+1 No.363618 Report

Determine the natural curve of the stick. Every piece of wood will have a natural curve, no matter how slight. As you construct the bow, this curve will determine where you place its main features. To find the curve, place your wood on the ground, with one hand holding it in place at the top. With your other hand, press lightly against its middle. It will swivel so that its natural belly faces you, and it's back faces out.

Determine the handhold and limbs. These parts are essential to the shaping process. To find the handhold, make marks three inches above and below the center point of the bow. Anything within these marks is the handhold, above them is the upper limb, and below is the lower limb.
Anonymous 04/03/14(Thu)02:30 UTC+1 No.363620 Report

Shape the bow. Place the bottom end of the bow on your foot, and one hand atop the bow. With your other hand, press outward, the belly facing you. Use this exercise to catalog where the bow is flexible and where it is not. Using a knife or similar tool, shave wood off the unyielding spots on the belly only, until both the upper and lower limbs curve similarly to each other. Check your progress frequently. When both limbs are more flexible and are mirror images of each other in curve and diameter, you are ready for the next step.

You want the bow to be strongest (thickest) at the handhold.

Be careful to only carve from the belly. An inordinate amount of pressure is exerted on the back of the bow, and even the slightest damage to its structure can promote breakage.
Anonymous 04/03/14(Thu)02:34 UTC+1 No.363624 Report

Cut notches to hold the bow string. Use your knife to cut notches that begin at the sides and curve around toward the belly of the bow and in toward the handhold as they go. There should be one on each side about 1 to 2 inches (2.5 to 5 cm) from each end of the bow. Remember not to cut into its back, and do not make the notches deep enough to compromise the strength of the tips. Make them just deep enough to hold the string in place.

Select a bow string. The string should not be stretchy, as the power comes from the wood, not the string. If you are stranded in the wilderness, it may be difficult to find a suitable string, and you may need to try a variety of materials before you find one that has the necessary strength.

Commercially available string material like Dacron can be purchased online but in a pinch toy can use just about any string that is not very elastic. rawhide, thin nylon rope, hemp cord, fishing line, strands of cotton, or silk, even ordinary twine.
Anonymous 04/03/14(Thu)02:42 UTC+1 No.363627 Report

Last step for the bow is to Tiller the bow. Hang it upside down by the handhold from a tree branch or something similar so that you can pull downward on the string. Pull downward slowly, checking to make sure that the limbs bend evenly and carving away wood as required, until you can pull it as far down as the distance between your hand and your jaw (arm fully extended out from shoulder).

Arrows are a pain in the ass, you can use ceder dowels or thin straight saplings that you dry out and trim over a fire.

Arrowheads can be cut from sheets of brass, shaved from metal, sharpened wood, or napped stone.
Anonymous 04/03/14(Thu)03:04 UTC+1 No.363634 Report

good luck with fletching with this. I've made my own arrows when I was younger. They worked for close range, but they were just terrible. I didn't know to pay attention to the grain, I bound the feathers I used for fletching with masking tape, And I didn't even bother with a tip. And don't even bother trying to make a bow. If you do, go big or go home. Take the time to learn every little detail, make sure to find the exact type of wood you need, and don't substitute anything.

The easier route is to just get a job. One or two paychecks = your first ~30lb used wooden recurve bow, the next couple paychecks = 5 good arrows. All you need is that and a place to shoot.
Anonymous 04/03/14(Thu)03:10 UTC+1 No.363635 Report

It`s like the guns of the old times
Anonymous 04/03/14(Thu)03:16 UTC+1 No.363636 Report


Fletching is a bit more difficult but if you're invested in making everything than you can learn a bit more online. easiest way is to get a hold of some dowels and feathers draw out a pattern on a piece of paper so you can check your angles.

Some simple wood glue and very thin string to wrap and secure the fetching to the shaft of the arrow.

There are also quick fletching kits that you can get at most hunting stores they are like shrink wrap with fletching on them.
Anonymous 04/03/14(Thu)08:01 UTC+1 No.363773 Report

Thanks for all the detail. Any advice on how to learn wood types? Pick tools? I don't know oak from maple. Can't tell conifers apart. Can only spot fruit and nut trees by their fruit and nut. If I were out camping and decided to try to make a bow I'd be lost.

I'm also open to book or video tutorial advice.

I'm think I'd do this AND try to make my own stuff. Pick up a cheap novice set to learn what a proper bow feels like while trying to make one myself.
Anonymous 04/04/14(Fri)05:45 UTC+1 No.364438 Report

Use the internet Luke...

Google, types of trees in (your area) and pick one from the list.
Anonymous 04/04/14(Fri)10:00 UTC+1 No.364567 Report

okay so you just kinda wanna have some discussion about making your own archery eqipm.? Alright

Before I started earning money, I made some arrows out of cedar. I had to carve it from a wooden stake, it ended up being really rough, albeit more or less straight. It took an insane amount of work for each arrow though.I ended up using osprey feathers for some arrows, a family of them lives in a nearby forest that I walked through a ton, so I often found clumps of feathers there. I attached the feathers using masking tape and sewing thread, although the thread eventually broke off, so I had to add more thread. To fix the problem of the tape sticking out too much, I waxed the arrow, so it was more of a taper near the end. It made it water resistant, so it wasn't too bad.

The main problem was that it was too short. It was about 27 inches and my bow I had needed at least 30. It often would fly in an odd direction mid flight, due to the overall shape and the grain of the wood.

I still don't really know the best way to make arrows yourself. Branches seem like the best way to get consistently straight grainz, but then it's green wood. As far as making a bow, it's a little more documented online, I've seen multiple good walkthroughs via blog.
Anonymous 04/04/14(Fri)10:01 UTC+1 No.364569 Report

>the thread eventually broke off, so I had to add more thread
holy fuck i'm tired. I meant tape, I had to add more tape
Anonymous 04/04/14(Fri)17:05 UTC+1 No.364661 Report

If I don't live anywhere near an archery range, and don't have a yard, is it acceptable for me to train with a sling shot in the mean time?
Anonymous 04/05/14(Sat)00:09 UTC+1 No.364864 Report

>Poor so never get to pursue it

I hate this. I did archery all the time as a kid (basically just shooting at cardboard boxes in my tiny yard), but had to give it up because getting non-kiddy equipment was too expensive. I got into again last year after teaching archery at a summer camp and being surprised I was still better than most people, but I'm still too poor to actually buy decent equipment or get range time in.
Anonymous 04/05/14(Sat)02:40 UTC+1 No.365025 Report

Ok, so if you're into making arrows on your own, try this site.


not terribly expensive. and you don't need to buy the fletching jigs just the shaft stock some field points and make your own fletching with some found feathers. you can make some inexpensive arrows this way but i'll tell you no that port oxford ceder is not the strongest material. They may snap after rough treatment.
All the content on this website comes from 4chan.org. All trademarks and copyrights on this page are owned by their respective parties. Images uploaded are the responsibility of the Poster. Comments are owned by the Poster. 4chanArchive is not affiliated with 4chan.