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Adding logo to baseball bat 05/15/14(Thu)03:09 UTC+1 No.638472 Report

I'm working on making a replica sandman (tf2 prop) from the bat it was based on (A louisville slugger original style).
So far I've managed to strip down this beat-up old bat, strip it, sand it baby smooth and refinish it, and how comes the time for me to actually apply the logo. What would be a good way to make the stencil and apply it? I don't want it to look half-assed but I can't think of anything that would give it a good look
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Anonymous 05/15/14(Thu)03:10 UTC+1 No.638473 Report

Here's the logo look
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Mithrandir 05/15/14(Thu)04:04 UTC+1 No.638484 Report

Heres what I was able to come up with from the few reference images I could find.

Using a wood burner would probably look fine, you could also make a cheap screen print setup and get something a little more professional looking.
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Anonymous 05/15/14(Thu)04:43 UTC+1 No.638497 Report

>>638484
Real wooden bats general have the logo burned in with a brand.
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Anonymous 05/15/14(Thu)05:08 UTC+1 No.638508 Report

>>638497
There's a big difference between a branded look and a hand-burned look
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Anonymous 05/15/14(Thu)05:18 UTC+1 No.638513 Report

>>638484
I'm seconding the wood burning. First draw it out with a pencil then go for it. If you lack a wood burner you could always just paint it, stain it, and then coat in polyetheramine. That's how a guy did pic related. Although I admit his wood is a bit dark and the grip a bit much, I thought he nailed the logo. Don't forget to saw a crack into it.
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Anonymous 05/15/14(Thu)05:22 UTC+1 No.638515 Report

>>638513
I was planning on getting the crack by taking a chisel and a hammer to the tip
Would a soldering iron work for my purposes here as far as wood burning goes?
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Mithrandir 05/15/14(Thu)05:28 UTC+1 No.638518 Report

>>638515
A soldering Iron would probably get hot enough but I would pick up some actual wood burning tips, alternatively dollar tree (and most dollar stores for that matter) has wood burning irons.
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Jesse 05/15/14(Thu)05:28 UTC+1 No.638519 Report

>>638515

Yeah soldering iron works fine for wood working. Take a scrap piece of wood (preferably the same species) and practice a bit.
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Anonymous 05/15/14(Thu)06:34 UTC+1 No.638543 Report

>>638515
be careful with that method. maybe bind it just below where you want the crack to stop. but once you start splitting wood along the grain it's difficult to stop. would hate to see you ruin the whole bat from one miscalculated hammer swing. Also without the actual removal of any wood fibers it will not be half as noticeable as what youre going for >>638473
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Anonymous 05/16/14(Fri)04:17 UTC+1 No.638921 Report

How'd I do
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Anonymous 05/16/14(Fri)04:26 UTC+1 No.638925 Report

>>638921
Not bad, not bad at all.
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Anonymous 05/16/14(Fri)04:42 UTC+1 No.638940 Report

>>638921
Actually fuck it, I just realized how terrible that looks. I'm stripping that off and refinishing it.
Would it work if I printed out the logo on something like sticker paper and then spraypainted it on?
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Jesse 05/16/14(Fri)05:02 UTC+1 No.638949 Report

>>638940

I saw a vid on youtube about applying decals straight from your printer but I can't find it now. Basically it involved getting some paper that wouldn't allow the ink to stick to, and then printing your image reversed and very carefully applying the paper to your project. Because it's ink it's a very thin layer so it doesn't create a vinyl film like normal decals do.

I thought the video was by John Heisz but I can't find it on his channel.
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Anonymous 05/16/14(Fri)05:16 UTC+1 No.638952 Report

>>638949
You might be thinking of decal paper, you can (maybe) buy this from Michaels, or more reliably from like Amazon or model hobby supplies. You print onto a special clear paper, spray a clear sealant, and apply it like any other waterslide decal.
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