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Anonymous 06/27/14(Fri)03:42 UTC+1 No.2350035 Report

Nikon J2 for $189 with a 10-30mm lens. I own a t1i currently and don't have a lot of money.

The main reason I don't shoot as much as I want to is because the thing is too bulky. Should I buy it?
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Anonymous 06/27/14(Fri)04:13 UTC+1 No.2350049 Report

>>2350035
Depends. Is it actually too bulky or are you looking for an excuse? If you can sell your t1i for a good price go ahead, just realize that this might not change anything.
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Anonymous 06/27/14(Fri)04:42 UTC+1 No.2350057 Report

>>2350035

Slickdeals? When you click through the link it shows $289.

Meh. The Nikon 1 series sensors are too small. When I've reviewed test shots I've always felt like you sacrifice too much in IQ compared to the competition. $189 is so low that it's probably worth it any way. But $289? There are better MILC options.

You can still find EOS M kits for <$350 and that sensor is better then what's in your T1i and far better then any of the Nikon 1 bodies, especially at high ISO. I'm not sure if there are any m4/3 or NEX deals at the moment, but if you're keeping your T1i and have Canon lenses that's a plus for the M.
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Anonymous 06/27/14(Fri)04:58 UTC+1 No.2350065 Report

>>2350057
Enter code YADIG for $100 off. They also have a J3 for $250 on groupon. I'm debating between the two,

And that's the problem I'm having. Crop factor is almost a killer for me.

There's also the samsung nx2000 for $250. Less crop factor issue, but then have to worry about samsung optics.
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Anonymous 06/27/14(Fri)05:02 UTC+1 No.2350071 Report

OP buy a used NEX-3N on eBay they're like $120 body only.
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Anonymous 06/27/14(Fri)06:37 UTC+1 No.2350121 Report

>>2350065
>Enter code YADIG for $100 off.

LOL! I guess it pays to read the deal :-)

>Crop factor is almost a killer for me.

If you want to adapt anything other then C mount (16mm cine) lenses it's a huge negative. Then again, if you want to adapt C mount it's an almost perfect fit.

>There's also the samsung nx2000 for $250. Less crop factor issue, but then have to worry about samsung optics.

Optics are what make the EOS M a steal at the current price point. The 18-55 IS and 22mm f/2 are both just over $100 and offer excellent IQ. They're priced stupid cheap for their IQ. The 11-22 IS is $400, but damn if the IQ, size, and weight aren't worth every penny.

The other systems have more body options and lenses, and I would recommend m4/3 or NEX for a primary system camera. For a secondary camera if the M's lenses cover your needs it's really hard to beat unless you're willing to spend a lot more.

I'm not as familiar with Samsung NX.
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Anonymous 06/27/14(Fri)07:06 UTC+1 No.2350136 Report

>>2350121
After hours of pointless research, I went with the Canon EOS-M. $300 with a 18-55mm kit.

The image focusing issues are concerning, but you do make a good point about the lenses. Not only are they cheap, but I can buy the adapter to use my existing lenses.

Plus, it's essentially an upgrade to the t1i I have. Man, I was really planning on this purchase being a cheap side camera, but I ended up buying a full upgrade. :P

Probably for the better, right?
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Anonymous 06/27/14(Fri)07:38 UTC+1 No.2350158 Report

>>2350136

I love mine. It's a perfect compliment to my 7D system. If I'm shooting street or want to travel light I grab the M. I have enough faith in it that I've taken it alone on trips where I knew I wouldn't need telephoto or sports/fast action.

My advice?

* Use single point AF. Skip the face detection/auto multi point selection crap which just slows it down. Touching the screen to select your focus point is so fast/intuitive that you don't need the auto crap.

* Take advantage of how easily you can select your focus point by placing it over areas of strong contrast.

Honestly, AF in single point mode is not slow with the zooms, especially when you target areas of contrast. It's still a bit sluggish with the 22mm, but quite usable.

* Try using the Cfn function that moves AF off the shutter release and onto the AE lock position on the rear dial. I like this option because if the distance to subject doesn't change then I can AF once and fire away. I keep that Cfn in my quick menu because occasionally a shooting situation calls for AF on the shutter.

This is similar to how I work with my 7D which has a reputation for 1D like AF performance. Single point AF, triggered on rear button (not shutter), focus on contrast and recompose if necessary.

My only real M complaints?

* Battery life. I usually carry 1-2 spares.

* The touch screen will activate if it rubs on your shirt. When shooting street I will often hit play to show the last photo so that if the M rubs on my shirt nothing happens, no changed settings. I also have a short screen timeout set to save battery life. Along those lines, touch to shoot is cool but the camera will take shots while rubbing on your shirt! I was kind of pissed when I ended up with a decent shot this way :-)

To my surprise, I love the touch screen UI and don't mind composing with the screen at all. When I bought it I was afraid I would hate both.

Any way, I'm rambling...enjoy your new M!
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Anonymous 06/27/14(Fri)08:28 UTC+1 No.2350176 Report

>>2350158
>Try using the Cfn function that moves AF off the shutter release and onto the AE lock position on the rear dial. I like this option because if the distance to subject doesn't change then I can AF once and fire away

Honestly, the AE-L button is so far away from where my hands are when gripping this camera as to make this modification not worth it to me. I just set the AF to "one shot" (you might need to do a few other modifications from stock to make it stop focusing continuously) and keep the shutter at half-press until I'm ready to shoot.

"One shot" mode will let you lock the focus with the shutter half-press and will prevent the camera from refocusing, as long as you continue half-pressing the shutter. Need the camera to be able to continually focus under shutter half-press? Just pull up the info screen and switch the AF mode to "servo."

I think a lot of people switch their AF/AE-L buttons around without understanding how to use the AF modes properly. You gain basically nothing and lose the convenience of having one of your most used functions be under a button that you'll conveniently be able to reach.
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Anonymous 06/27/14(Fri)09:01 UTC+1 No.2350181 Report

>>2350176
>You gain basically nothing and lose the convenience of having one of your most used functions be under a button that you'll conveniently be able to reach.

Whatever works for you, but I much prefer AF on the AE lock to holding a half shutter press UNLESS I need continuous AF. Hence why the Cfn is in my menu.

Maybe it's just the way I hold the M.

On the 7D I never have AF on the shutter, but it has dedicated rear AF and AE lock buttons that fall right under your thumb.
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Anonymous 06/27/14(Fri)09:04 UTC+1 No.2350183 Report

>>2350136
You won't regret it. For that price, it's a steal, but the image quality is incredible for any sub-$700 camera. Get both the 18-55 and the 22mm pancake. Mirrorless cameras really need a pancake lens on the front to make them pocketable (maybe in a jacket picket), and the EF-M 22mm is tack sharp wide open.

The upcoming 55-200 should also be excellent because it's supposed to be a slightly slower re-working of an already sharp design, the EF-S 55-250 IS STM. The befit of the EF-M version is that the overall size is a couple inches shorter (the lens is 1" shorter, and mounting it on the EOS M subtracts another inch), and reducing bulk is always a good thing for a 200mm telephoto. The price on Amazon Japan is $450. Add in proxy fees and international shipping, and that's $485-500. Not bad, but hopefully the price will come down as used ones pop up on the market.
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Anonymous 06/27/14(Fri)09:08 UTC+1 No.2350185 Report

>>2350181
As long as AE-L and AF are on different buttons, I don't mind holding the shutter at half-press for a few moments as I compose the shot. It is a very nice shutter, and the half-press is hard to screw up.
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Anonymous 06/27/14(Fri)09:52 UTC+1 No.2350191 Report

>>2350183
>The upcoming 55-200 should also be excellent because it's supposed to be a slightly slower re-working of an already sharp design, the EF-S 55-250 IS STM. The befit of the EF-M version is that the overall size is a couple inches shorter (the lens is 1" shorter, and mounting it on the EOS M subtracts another inch), and reducing bulk is always a good thing for a 200mm telephoto. The price on Amazon Japan is $450. Add in proxy fees and international shipping, and that's $485-500. Not bad, but hopefully the price will come down as used ones pop up on the market.
I disagree. The 55-250 is faster and has more reach. It's a little bigger, but still pretty compact for an EF-S zoom. These go on sale for $300, and can be had used for even less. I don't want to be limited to f/6.3 at the long end just to lose a couple inches of length.
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Anonymous 06/27/14(Fri)10:43 UTC+1 No.2350197 Report

>>2350191

The EF-M 55-200 is one I'm not crazy about. I would have to see one to see if the size/weight savings are worth it. But I doubt I would buy a tele for my M any way. If I need telephoto, I'm probably going to want the AF, speed, and tracking of a DSLR.

My M is a street, travel, lightweight hiking tool.
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